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Volunteer Spotlight: Eagle Scout Will Hetzel Leads Troop 106 in Building Bog Bridges at Ashbridge Preserve

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By Director of Stewardship Andrew Kirkpatrick

Photos by Director of Land Protection Erik Hetzel

It has been over five years since I began working in the nonprofit sector, and during that time I have learned a universal truth about our work; volunteers are the backbone of our operations. People who choose to give their time to support our mission are critical to our success. Across all of our program areas, we could not achieve our mission without our volunteers.

Boy Scout Troop 106 with Andrew Kirkpatrick and Erik Hetzel

When it comes to our Habitat Restoration Program, managing and maintaining our nature preserves in Willistown — Rushton, Kirkwood, and Ashbridge — would not be possible without the help of our volunteers. Keeping trails clear and invasive species in check is a full-time operation. Our preserve manager Mike Cranney has his hands full, but with the help of our incredible volunteers, he can accomplish a lot. Local Eagle Scout, Will Hetzel (son of our Director of Land Protection, Erik Hetzel) recently demonstrated this in August when he organized scouts from Troop 106 to install eight new bog bridges at Ashbridge Preserve.

We use bog bridges at our preserves to allow visitors to traverse wet and mucky areas without causing damage to the trail. The bog bridges, also called puncheons, are constructed with wood planks on top of footers and covered with chicken wire to reduce slippery conditions when it rains. The bog bridges are anchored to the ground using rebar stakes. For his project, Will raised over $1,000 in donations and goods to build the new bog bridges for the path adjacent to Ridley Creek.

On a hot and sunny Wednesday afternoon, Will gathered his team of scouts to build the bridges on site and install them along the trail. Will and the scouts were well organized, efficient, and professional. I felt inspired watching these fine young men work together in the preserve, getting their hands dirty and creating an amenity that will benefit the community. The scouts did a great job and completed the project from start to finish in three hours. Thanks to them, this trail, which is often wet and muddy, will now be more easily accessible to our visitors.

Having been a scout myself, I can say what an accomplishment it is for Will to reach the rank of Eagle Scout and complete his service project. Not many scouts stick it out and commit to this level of accomplishment. It is a reflection of Will’s perseverance, fortitude, and determination that will serve him well throughout his academic and future professional career. I think we can all draw inspiration from the example set by Will and the scouts from Troop 106. Taking the time to give back by volunteering is both personally fulfilling and incredibly impactful for organizations like ours.

If you are interested in joining our group of dedicated volunteers, you are welcome to join us at our Stewardship Volunteer Thursdays, held at our various Preserves from 9am to 4pm every Thursday through November. You can come for the whole session or as long as you’re able! Send an email to Preserve Manager Mike Cranney (mjc@wctrust.org) to sign up. If you’d like to complete a larger project, similar to Will’s bog bridges, please get in touch with Stewardship Director Andrew Kirkpatrick (ajk@wctrust.org).


By Andrew J. Kirkpatrick | he/him | Director of Stewardship | As part of the Trust’s Habitat Restoration Program, Andrew oversees the stewardship of our private conservation easement properties and our nature preserves, in addition to coordinating our Stewardship volunteers days.

Native Alternatives to Invasive Plants

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Every time I walk into a nursery or big box store I feel a great temptation to purchase the prettiest plants. However, sometimes the prettiest plants and the ones that stand up to deer are not the best selections available for local pollinators and wildlife. Native plants support local species better than exotic ones because they have evolved in the ecosystems where we live. 

And while you will see bees and butterflies at non-native plants, these do not offer the same amount of nutritional content as their native alternatives. A blueberry is far more nutritious for a bird than a barberry. Birds have to eat more of the invasive species to get the same amount of benefits which in turn increases the spread of the invasive seeds in their poop.

With a little research and careful selection we can easily move away from invasive garden species to more beneficial native ones. Here’s a list to get started derived from the excellent book from the Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Native Alternatives to Invasive Species.

Invasive Shrub: Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)

  • Escapes into the wild and invades forests where it pushes out native shrub species plus it is a vector for ticks.

Replace With: Witch Alder (Fothergilla gardenii), New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) or Bush honeysuckle (Diervilla lonicera)

  • Witch Alder
  • New Jersey Tea Plant
  • Bush Honeysuckle
  • Small shrub with rounded to mounding form
  • 3-5 ft tall and wide
  • Fuzzy white terminal flower clusters in early spring
  • Oval scalloped foliage
  • Orange to burgundy fall color
  • Mounding to spreading form.
  • 1-3 ft tall and 2-4 ft wide
  • Terminal white flower clusters in late spring and summer
  • Deep green foliage
  • Yellow autumn color
  • Small shrub with arching vase like form.
  • 2-4 ft tall and 3-5 ft wide
  • Yellow flowers all summer
  • Yellow to burgundy autumn color.
  • See it at the RCC by the front door!

Invasive Shrub: Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii)

  • Despite the name, butterfly bush only supports adult butterflies with its abundant nectar but fails to provide for all of the other stages of life.

Replace With: Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) or Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)

  • Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
  • Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
  • Rounded, irregular form
  • 6-10 ft tall and wide
  • Attractive winter silhouette
  • Fuzzy white summertime flowers
  • Deep glossy green foliage
  • Yellow autumn color.
  • Upright to irregular form
  • 4-8 ft tall and wide
  • Tawny to chestnut-colored bark
  • Deep green quilted foliage
  • Spikes of sweet-scented white flowers in summer
  • Yellow autumn foliage color

Invasive Groundcover: Japanese Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis)

  • Aggressive spreader, easily escapes into adjacent natural areas.

Replace With: Allegheny spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) or Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium)

  • Allegheny spurge (Pachysandra procumbens)
  • Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)
  • Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium)
  • Dense, slow-spreading groundcover
  • Paddle-shaped evergreen leaves
  • Fuzzy spring flowers
  • Rich winter foliage
  • Not deer resistant!
  • Climbing vine with holdfasts
  • Palmate leaves with five leaflets
  • Smoky-blue berries on red stalks
  • Flaming autumn color
  • Deer resistant
  • Delicate blue star shaped spring flowers
  • Grass like foliage
  • Grows in dense, tufted clumps

Invasive Vine: Japanese Honeysuckle
(Lonicera japonica) 

  • Aggressive vine that will smother trees and shrubs.

Replace With: Trumpet Honeysuckle
(Lonicera sempervirens)

  • Well-behaved deciduous vine
  • Scarlet flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds
  • Small red berries
  • Gray-green leaves
  • Exfoliating winter bark

Invasive Grass: Chinese Silvergrass
(Miscanthus sinensis Anderss.)

  • very aggressive and deep rooted ornamental grass that is sold as sterile but tends to reproduce anyway.
  • A serious threat to meadows and natural grassy areas.

Replace With: Indiangrass
(Sorghastrum nutans)

  • Clumping grass with ascending, tufted foliage
  • Silky golden plumes
  • Red to russet autumn color

Invasive Grass: Fountain Grass
(Pennisetum)

  • Escapes into natural areas forming dense stands, prolific seeder spreads by wind.

Replace With: Pink Hair Grass
(Muhlenbergia capillaris)

  • Clumping grass with a rounded crown
  • Low tufts of arching blades
  • Airy red plumes
  • Russet to tawny autumn color

Winter Solstice

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Solar system planets set. The Sun and planets in a row on the universe stars background. Elements of this image furnished by NASA. 3d illustration from Envato Elements.

As the clock winds down on 2020 come the hopes of a brighter future. The occasion of the winter solstice feels more relevant this year than any other in recent memory. The solstice is the longest night of the year and happens twice annually, once in the Northern Hemisphere in December and then in the Southern Hemisphere in June (when we’re all celebrating the longest day of the year). Nordic traditions bring the burning of a Yule log to observe the occasion, in China, they share rice balls called tang yuan with family at gatherings, Persian tradition celebrates Shab-e Yalda with fires burning all night, poetry readings, and eating summer fruits to protect against winter illness. Around the world, there are many rich traditions of celebration going on.

This winter solstice will be especially unique because of the planetary ‘Great Conjunction’ of Jupiter and Saturn, the two largest planetary bodies. The last time the planets were this close to view was July 1623, almost four hundred years ago and this rare celestial occurrence won’t happen again until 2080. Some are calling it the Christmas Star because of the proximity to Christmas this year. Regardless of what you call it, it will be a sight to see and should not be missed. The coincidence of this event occurring on the longest night of the year feels more meaningful. Just after sunset will be the best time to observe the splendor in the western sky.

The solstice and the conjunction bring to mind the Yin and Yang of the universe. The constant push and pull of tides and seasons. Everyone has been through so much this year; it’s easy to forget that we live in a very dynamic universe. A place where everything changes constantly and rainy days yield to sunny ones. Summer gives way to autumn, autumn to winter, and winter to spring. This winter of 2020 feels especially significant as we look to close the book on the troubles of the past year and focus on what’s ahead. In the darkness, there is light one cannot exist without the other.

We are excited for the year ahead of us at Willistown Conservation Trust and in the Stewardship Department. We’ll be finishing our Master Plan at Rushton Woods and Farm Preserve. We’ll be applying for grants to improve our other preserves. We’ll continue to work with our dedicated volunteers to repair trails and make the land more enjoyable for visitors. Our connection to the outdoors and the land in Willistown is one of our greatest treasures, and rest assured the Trust will continue to protect the land, improve the health of it, and connect our community to nature.

Rain Gardens – Digging Deeper

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Rain gardens are popping up everywhere. You will find them on college campuses and office parks, in mall parking lots, along city streets and multiuse trails. They have grown in popularity over the last several years, in response to the many problems stormwater causes in the landscape.

When it rains – especially a heavy rain – we see flooding, erosion, and pollution from stormwater runoff. Just the first inch of rain during a storm collectively does the most harm.

The good news is local use of rain gardens (even on your own property!) can help to reduce flooding, erosion, and pollution over a broad region.

The Benefits of a Rain Garden

A rain garden on your property provides numerous benefits, including:

  • Intercepting water and provide habitat for birds and wildlife
  • Reducing stormwater runoff by 30% compared to a traditional turf lawn
  • Adding natural beauty

It is not just another garden bed and does not need to be limited to perennial wildflowers and grasses. Shrubs and trees can also be used in rain gardens to achieve increased absorption, retention, and beauty.

Planning Your Rain Garden

When planning a rain garden, you need to determine what is known as the infiltration rate of your soil, or how quickly water drains through it. This will indicate whether your soils can support a rain garden. You can test it yourself in 4 easy steps:

  1. Dig a hole 1’  deep, being careful not to disturb the sides or compact the soil in the hole.
  2. Pour 444 mL (1”) of water into the hole and let it drain completely
  3. Fill the hole with water again and place a ruler in the center flush with the bottom to measure the depth
  4. Wait 15 minutes, measure the water depth again then multiply the result by four to determine the infiltration rate. Rates of .5 to 8 inches in an hour are sufficient for rain gardens.

Next, consider the location and size of the rain garden.  The Philadelphia Water Department recommends sizing your rain garden to be 20-30% of your impervious surfaces (roof, driveways, patios, and walkways).  The rain garden should be a minimum of ten feet away from the foundation of your house and your property line and in the lowest spot of the yard. The area should have a 1% slope away from your house for proper drainage. The rain garden will need either an outflow or a drain for larger storm events to prevent flooding. Make sure that the direction of the discharge is away from your house and your neighbor’s property.

When digging the rain garden, if your soil is rich with organic matter, two to three inches of depth will be sufficient. If it’s not and you need to amend it, dig down five to six inches and add compost. Always use PA 1-Call  before you dig, to make sure you are clear of unseen obstacles underground.  Taper the edges of the rain garden toward the center to prevent erosion. 

Purple coneflower is a great choice for a raingarden.

Selecting Plants

And now for the exciting part: deciding what to plant. The funny thing about a rain garden is that most of the time, it is dry! While you might think wetland plants would be best, floodplain plants that can handle periods of inundation and drought are actually ideal. Basically, a rain garden functions like a small floodplain where water can stop, slow down, infiltrate into the soil and be absorbed by plant roots. The next question to ask is what plants are common to floodplains?

Depending on the size of your rain garden, planting a tree in it might not make sense. But if it does, a tree can be a fantastic focal point. In our region, you have a variety of native choices:

  • canopy trees: red and silver maples, sycamore, river birch, pin oak, swamp white oak, and black gum. 
  • understory: black willow and sweet-bay magnolia

Bald cypress is a great southern species, too. As our area continues to warm up, using more southerly species may be a way to increase the long term vitality of your landscape.

The shrub layer of floodplains offer a rich palette of plants from which to choose. Highbush blueberry, red chokeberry, and black chokeberry look lovely and provide edible fruit. Buttonbush, arrowwood, winterberry holly, ninebark, meadowsweet, sweet pepperbush, possumhaw, red twig and silky dogwoods offer a variety of color, texture and seasonal interest to round out a rain garden. Once established, shrubs require minimal maintenance.

Thinking of your rain garden as a habitat with niches to fill can help guide design and plant selection. Plan on a variety of heights and moisture tolerances between the center and edges. Plant low growing cool season bunch grasses for early season cover, wildflowers for summer color, and shrubs for height and fruit.

Whether you plant trees, shrubs, wildflowers, or grasses, rain gardens can provide beauty, functionality, and habitat for your landscape. Dig deeper and decide for yourself what type of rain garden fits your landscape and start helping your community by reducing stormwater runoff at home. Many small actions can really make a difference.

Willistown Conservation Trust’s Rushton Conservation Center features a rain garden designed by Jonathan Alderson Landscape Architects. It is includes sweetbay magnolia and sweet pepperbush. A variety of wildflowers and grasses were planted as plugs and seed. Swamp milkweed, butterfly weed, purple coneflower, bee balm, beardtongue, mountain mint, and asters fill the basin with seasonal color and attract pollinators all summer long. The circular driveway around the rain garden is pitched inwards to drain runoff during storms. A surface drain in the rain garden directs overflow to a nearby underground stormwater basin.

This article was originally published in County Lines Magazine – May 2020 Issue.